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There were two men running free in the Fiorentina half. First Jarrod Bowen, en route to winning West Ham United their first trophy in 43 years. And then David Moyes, sprinting on to the Prague pitch in celebration, arms stretched out wide. It was a run that was 25 years in the making, a journey that took him from the Auto Windscreens Shield to the Europa Conference League. Few clubs have waited longer for the emotional release of securing silverware. Few managers, either. It began in a derided knockout competition for Moyes, the Auto Windscreens where Preston North End, newly under a 34-year-old centre-back, faced Macclesfield in January 1998. A quarter of a century later and, in game No.1,097 of a marathon managerial career, Moyes had a major honour he could call his own. He had said credited Sir Alex Ferguson with the Community Shield his Manchester United claimed, perhaps thinking there would be further glory for him at Old Trafford. There wasn’t. But if Moyes has long been destined to be remembered as the man miscast as Ferguson’s successor, he has other places in footballing history. The best Everton manager since Howard Kendall is in select company. Like Ron Greenwood, like John Lyall but like no one else, Moyes has won something with, and for, West Ham. The ungainly, unglamorous figure bouncing up and down in front of their fans finally has the crowning glory he has long lacked. It may be ‘only’ the Conference League and West Ham’s resources perhaps dictate they ought to triumph, but Moyes had been the manager whose considerable achievements lacked that defining feat. He has ten top-eight finishes in the Premier League with either West Ham or Everton and if taking the Merseysiders to fourth in 2005 involved greater alchemy, the reality is that two clubs who used to have more hope of silverware now operate in an environment where the superpowers sweep up the prizes, even those they scarcely want. Successive European runs have shown what the medals mean to West Ham: for Moyes, sent off in the semi-final last year for rather ignominiously booting the ball at a ball-boy, there is a happier ending. The Scot had called this the biggest game of his career and, before the night finished, he was placing his medal around the neck of his 87-year-old father, David senior. He saw names being etched into West Ham folklore. Only Alan Sealey had scored the goal to win West Ham a European trophy until Bowen burst clear. Only Bobby Moore and Billy Bonds, their greatest player and record appearance maker, had captained them to silverware until Declan Rice, almost certainly in his valedictory act, joined an elite band. Rice will probably leave. For much of the season, there has been a debate if Moyes should, and for other reasons. West Ham underachieved in the Premier League, spending the best part of £200m, finishing 14th. The 60-year-old was taken aback last season when Jurgen Klopp informed him he was the oldest manager in the division and grateful when Roy Hodgson relieved him of that mantle; the more pertinent issue is whether he is deemed yesterday’s manager now. Certainly Fiorentina out-passed West Ham for swathes of the final. They looked the team with the more progressive ethos, the side with the manager, in Vincenzo Italiano, bound for better things. But Moyes’ management has always been based in part on grit and grind, on putting in hard work in hard times. It hasn’t always reaped a reward but West Ham stayed in the game. There weren’t VAR penalties or the Europa Conference League when Moyes started out in the Auto Windscreens Shield but Said Benrahma scored from the spot. Moyes had led in a final before – Louis Saha’s goal after 25 seconds in the 2009 FA Cup was a record until Saturday – and, when Giacomo Bonaventura cancelled out the opener, he could have been forgiven for having flashbacks to Chelsea’s comeback against Everton 14 years ago. But not this time. The Conference League was not actually created for Premier League or Serie A clubs but for Fiorentina and West Ham, starved of honours for two and four decades respectively, it had a purpose, a chance to create memories and Bowen did. And so on a night when a section of West Ham’s fans disgraced themselves, pelting Fiorentina captain Cristiano Biraghi with missiles, leaving him with blood running down his head and neck, their manager got the reward that had long eluded him. For much of Moyes’ quarter of a century, he has seen the major prizes go to the coaching Galacticos. He had been earned his peers’ approval, being voted the LMA’s manager of the year three times, but as he stood on the podium, tugging at the gold medal Aleksander Ceferin had placed around his neck, Moyes had something he had been searching for since over a thousand games ago. Read More West Ham fans leave Fiorentina player bleeding after being hit by objects thrown from crowd West Ham end trophy drought in most dramatic style as Jarrod Bowen plays the hero Violent clashes between West Ham and Fiorentina fans lead to arrests ahead of European final Carlton Cole on West Ham’s final, a coaching career and his surprise ‘love’ of the world’s most sustainable sport David Moyes hands over medal to his father after West Ham end wait for trophy West Ham end trophy drought in most dramatic style as Jarrod Bowen plays the hero West Ham vs Fiorentina LIVE: Europa Conference League final latest updates

I’m looking out at a glorious sunset from the dining room at Royal Troon, standing next to the actual Claret Jug, with a sneaking suspicion that I shouldn’t really be here. I’ve been playing for less than two years. In that time I’ve played some of the worst golf imaginable and loved every minute of it, before eventually wrestling myself down to an unspectacular but semi-respectable standard. In the space of the last two days, I’ve ended up playing the superb Dundonald Links and Royal Troon: hallowed ground on Scotland’s beautiful west coast, which will play host to the 152nd Open championship in 2024. In that relatively short time, I’ve realised that one of the wonders of this sport is being able to play the same courses as the best players in the world, stepping up and (very, very occasionally) hitting shots they’d be pleased to have hit themselves. The fact that I was able to spend a few days in one of the most exceptional locations for golf anywhere on the planet and relish every moment, is a testament to that. The Open Championship is named so because theoretically any player can enter qualifying and try to take part. It’s surreal to even be standing here, with golf’s biggest prize just feet away, but not only does this part of Scotland offer some of the best experiences anywhere in the UK for lovers of the game, but it also proves that golf really is for everyone. Sign up to our free Indy100 weekly newsletter My main destination for an unforgettable week in golf country is Dundonald Links. While there has been golf played on the site since 1911, the course that opened in 2003 was designed by Kyle Phillips, who is also responsible for celebrated courses like Kingsbarns and The Grove. It’s a beautiful modern links which despite hosting the Scottish Open in 2017 and always being held in high regard as a course, was previously held back by a lack of a major clubhouse. That changed with a major redevelopment in 2021, which saw new owners Darwin Escapes invest £25 million into the place. The result is an assortment of world-class facilities all within an 9-iron's distance of the first tee. While the Scottish Open had been hosted with a series of temporary structures, the new clubhouse is a fantastic focal point and one of the finest contemporary golfing constructions you will find anywhere in the UK. The slick, spacious room on the first floor is split between the central bar and the Canny Crow restaurant, which offers contemporary British dining done superbly well. There’s also an excellent pro shop and a state-of-the-art gym, as well as saunas and steam rooms in both sets of changing rooms, a grass range and short game areas. Then, there’s the course itself. I had the pleasure of playing it twice during my stay. The first thing that you notice when walking to the first tee box is the flashes of yellow and purple gorse, which frame holes and add both character and danger along all the undulating Dundonald fairways. The run of holes cut channels through natural burrows and hillocks of the land, with penal rough ready to snag errant shots. Dundonald is lusher and more tree-lined than your traditional links, and while burnt-out fairways and bare lies are the norm along the Scottish coast, the fairways here are left a little longer through selective irrigation methods. The greens were in excellent condition and played fast and true during both rounds, offering a little more reception than your typical links playing surfaces. The western corner of the course looks out to the Isle of Arran and Ailsa Craig across the Irish Sea. It’s a reminder of the wealth of great courses on this stretch of coastline too, with Turnberry round the corner, as well as Western Gailes and Royal Troon just out of sight. While the first nine certainly isn’t lacking in appeal, the standout holes are more prevalent on the back. The 11th hole is a memorable par three measuring just 123 yards from the back tees, which can really show its teeth if not played smartly. The three sand traps on the front look nasty enough, but don’t be too tempted to take too much extra club: the deepest bunker I’ve ever seen, officially known as the “Cauldron” and colloquially referred to as the “Devil’s a***hole”, is waiting over the back and requires players to hit 10ft up to the green, up a slope which feeds balls back down to the sandy depths. Do not, under any circumstances, go in there, because you might never get out. Aside from this one feature, the course plays true and fair, offering a challenge to all levels of golfer, and offering plenty in terms of enjoyment for the mid to higher handicapper. Moreover, it’s a gorgeous plot of land. The 13th hole is skirted by a train and runs down to a huge McKenzie-style green, with a burn running across the front ready to catch under-hit approaches. With the rail track tucking up the left-hand side, this beautiful hole leaves you feeling like you’re a bad pull away from derailing the Glasgow Express. The 18th might be the best of the lot. The wide green has another treacherous burn snaking across before it - something of a signature at Dundonald – helping to provide a stunning risk and reward closing hole. There’s a plaque on the fairway marking the spot from which Rafa Cabera Bello hit a wand of a three wood from 275 yards to 10 feet to win the Scottish Open in 2017. It’s bound to provide more drama when the course hosts the Scottish Women’s Open again later this year. After my first-time round, seeing players finish up on the 18th green from the clubhouse in the golden hour, it just made me want to jump back in a buggy and play again. Royal Troon would come later in the week, but while that 19th century institution is rightly proud of its tradition and reverence for rules and respect, Dundonald, just a 10 minute drive away on the same stretch of coast, could hardly be more different. The smart, yet laid-back setting in the Canny Crow restaurant is one of the strongest elements of Dundonald’s overall offering. I enjoyed excellent vegetarian options (not always the case in Scotland) and a strong wine list during my time there. There’s also a superb whisky room kitted out with a custom Dundonald Links 1980 Bunnahabhain Canasta cask – the only one in the world. For whisky fans on a golf trip, it’s essentially heaven on Earth. A total of 18 new lodges were put in place in 2021, offering luxurious rooms, large communal spaces complete with spacious kitchens, pool tables and large sofas – ideal for sinking into and watching the PGA Championship on our penultimate night of the stay. The biggest talking point of the lodges are the three purpose-built putting greens also designed by Phillips which border them, all in great condition. Things have stepped up a whole lot at Dundonald in the last few years with the new developments. Their aim was to create one of the best golf resorts in Scotland, and provide a hub for players exploring Ayrshire. Over the course of my stay, it was apparent they had achieved this in some style. The next day, there was the small matter of playing Royal Troon. The historic course was the venue for one of the most memorable Open Championships of the 21st century when Henrick Stensen and Phil Mickelsen went toe to toe in 2016. Organisers, the R&A will undoubtedly be hoping for something just as blockbusting when the tournament comes next year. The course is renowned for its difficulty and for being one of the hardest on the Open rota, and so it proved: even on a still day in pretty perfect conditions, I received a bit of a battering at its hands. It is without a doubt the most complete test of golf many in my group had ever – or will ever – experience. Arriving at the grand old clubhouse steeped in the weight of history and sporting tradition was nerve-inducing enough as it was, but our group had the honour of teeing off next to the Claret Jug on the first tee box. Seeing the famous trophy did little to ease our anxieties ahead of the most significant first tee shot of our lives to start the round. As first tee shots go, it’s a tough one: there’s a myriad of bunkers to navigate ahead, and if you feel like bailing out left to avoid the Irish Sea to your right, there’s always the shin-high rough waiting to swallow up your ball. It was a little taster of the nerves the best players in the world will feel when they stand on the tee for the Open in 2024. I quickly learned that you cannot go in the rough at Royal Troon, and you absolutely cannot, under any circumstances, go in the sand. There are 98 bunkers on the course, averaging at more than five per hole, and nearly all of them are capable of swallowing up your ball, slapping you in the face and ruining your round. Whereas Dundonald offers a modern interpretation of links with more grass on the fairways, conditions at Troon are as traditional as you will ever play. It’s a traditional out and back course, with some of the most dramatic coastal vistas you’re likely to experience in the UK. Indeed, the view from the seventh tee box is one of the most breathtaking in Scottish golf, with the sea behind and the fairway peppered with pot bunkers curving down before you. The famous eighth is elevated on the right from there, and if that baby fade turns into a slice, then players on that green could be at risk if you’re not careful. Stood on the tee box of the “Postage Stamp” gives another nerve-inducing jolt. Much has been made of this devilish little hole, just 123 yards in length but with a tiny green perilously plonked in the middle of five enormous bunkers. Avoiding the “coffin” bunker to the left felt like a small victory in itself when my time on the tee box came: considering the golfing lives it has claimed down the years, I was reasonably happy with marking a six on my scorecard. It’s a course stacked with standout holes, but the 11th – known as “The Railway” as it runs up next to the train tracks – will live long in my memory as one of the most stunningly designed holes I’ll ever play, with a dividing wall just feet from the green on the right and a beast of a bunker ready to catch cautious approaches on the front left. As ever, there’s gorse at every turn and delightful views back over the course from the tee box. It’s technically the hardest on the course, and once again I was already looking forward to seeing the pros take it on. The anticipation of next year’s Open brought home just how lucky I was to have teed it up on such revered turf. By rights I shouldn’t have been there, but I’m so glad I was, and it was another reminder that everyone can have fantastic experiences in golf. The east coast of Scotland might steal the headlines when it comes to golfing destinations, and it’s no great surprise when the likes of St Andrews, Muirfield, Carnoustie and other wonderful, historic locations can be found there. But the west coast is stacked with world-class destinations for golfers looking to find rewarding experiences, fantastic hospitality and some of the finest links courses anywhere on Earth. On the last morning of my trip, after the formalities of Troon and a suited and booted R&A dinner the evening before, we took out a buggy on the delightful back nine at Dundonald. It was a serene morning, and we played it in a carefree hour and a half, not bothering about the score and just taking in our surroundings one last time before heading home. It’s an honour to have spent a perfect week in golf country. Have your say in our news democracy. Click the upvote icon at the top of the page to help raise this article through the indy100 rankings.

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